Monday 4th September - Travel Day
Our tour started with a delay at Heathrow airport, including sitting on the plane for an hour before take off. Consequently, we were late for our prebooked (and pre-paid) dinner at 7.30, arranged by Cycling for Softies. However, the word had been passed on of our late arrival, and the meal rearranged for 9pm. (Great organision, so far).
It was unfortunately dark by this time, so our short walk to the restaurant from our hotel, "Touring", was limited. But we did notice lots of archways, which would be a feature of other cities we would visit. ( phone snaps.)
 |
| walking into Bologne for our meal |
 |
This was our set menu
At Trottoria Nona Gigia. It was excellent. |
 |
| Main square Bologne, as we walked back. |
Tuesday 5th September BOLOGNE TO MODENA
Our bikes were delivered by 9am, our saddles swapped to our own. Then a briefing from Cycle Europe, which took place on the rooftop terrace of the city centre hotel, with some more rooftop views.
 |
| Views from Hotel Touring, Bologne |
 |
| DAY 1 Route Map |
Leaving the city, on a few cobbles streets initially, we soon noticed just how many cycle paths we were on. Great planning by the city.
It took quite a while to leave the city completely behind, but after 5 miles, at last we reached the countryside. Lots of fruit growing, and sunflower fields. Too late for the colour, but still lovely to see.
 |
| Fruit trees |
 |
Riding between fruit orchards.
|
 |
| It was very flat, but with views to the mountains beyond. |
 |
John chatting with Murray and friend Jane, who, with 5 others (The Aussie Gaggle!),
were doing the same route. We would get to know them of course over coming days. |
 |
| The occasional flower still had some colour as our journey continued. |
Part of the route became quite commercial, riding alongside traffic (on cyclepaths). At one point I noticed the Carpigiani GELATO UNIVERSITY! 😂
 |
| Never heard of an Gelato university! |
 |
| Farm buildings everywhere. This one with a church in the distance. |
 |
| The main square in BAZZANO, our drink stop, |
 |
| Bazzano side street |
Later, we passed through Spillanberto, and also along a converted railway line. It was lunch time, but we didn't spot anywhere to eat so decided to keep going to Modena. Good surface on the old rail line, and we passed some old railway buildings too. (would return via this section tomorrow).
 |
| I shouted "stopping" here, since I liked the decaying building with the decaying seedheads. |
 |
| Beautiful view with agriculture buildings making the landscape interesting. |
 |
| The hills are getting closer! (tomorrow!) |
Starving as we arrived into Modena, and found a snackbar in a green park area, just 1 mile from our hotel. Then a lovely surprise to see our beautiful hotel! The porter had spotted us arriving, and the garage door opened for our bike storage. 😊 Called The Canal Grande.
 |
Showered, then Proseco on the patio.
(think that his Jane in the background too) |
 |
| Breakfast patio. Amazing space for a city centre hotel. |
And then a walk into Modena. Again, our hotel very central to the city centre, some of which is pedestrianised.
WEDNESDAY 6TH SEPTEMBER - MODENA LOOP TO VIGNOLO
 |
| Day 2 LOOP |
(As we were about to set off, we learned that Sam, daughter of Mary Ellen, had a puncture. None of the Aussie group knew how to fix it. However, one Cath was not cycling today, so with her bike used instead, John said he would fix Sam's at the end of the day. )
We left Modena, retracing about 10 miles of yesterdays route, via the old railway tracks, and this time stopped for a few photos of the buildings.
We climbed gradually all the way to CASTLENUOVO, where the landscape changed to vineyards, with hills in the far distance.
And as we approached CASTLEVERTO, a very sharp, but short climb hair pinning up to the Castle.
 |
| CASTLEVERTO |
 |
| CASTLEVERTO |
 |
CASTLEVERTO. And only the one drink option.... at this hotel. Thankfully some shade.
|
Having climbed, we now dropped down once more, to soon start a bit more of a serious, longer climb to VILLABIANCA. It was hard in the heat of mid 30 degrees. The Garmin was a cat 4 climb, with Red, orange and yellow ..... but then it changed to red again! Which meant about 15% gradient.
 |
| Hot hot hot, on our way up to Villabianca. And the road conditions were rather crumbled too. |
 |
Views looking back to where we came from. This was not even 1/3rd of the way up.
It went on, and on, and on. |
At last we were at the top... or so we thought. We wondered how on earth the farmers plough on these gradients?
 |
| Don't fancy driving the tractor on this slope! |
A very steep descent followed. 20% I think it was, quite scary with brakes squealing! But at last back to normal gradients then flat.
 |
| This descent was ridiculously steep. |
 |
We stopped in VIGNOLA for lunch.
Terrible service at this cafe. Had to ASK to be served after 20 mins. |
Sam stopped to chat at this cafe for a few minutes, now cycling on her own, ahead of the others. She told us that she had to walk up the tough hill with her ebike! Made me feel not so bad after all. 😇 We passed through Spilamberto as we did yesterday, to join the old track once more to make our way back to Modena.
Our meal tonight was also pre paid at Pizzeria Al Grottina. It was very nice. A mountain of Parmesan and Ham to start, two coloured pasta for main, and Tiramisu for dessert.
THURSDAY 7TH SEPTEMBER MODENA TO REGGIO
 |
| TODAY'S ROUTE |
A few photos from around the hotel this morning, and also a walk into town in the soft morning light with our cameras, before our ride today. Modena is such a beautiful city.
 |
| Hotel garden and breakfast area |
 |
| Hotel garden and breakfast area |
 |
| Modena |
 |
| Modena. Pavarotti lived here... well not at the cafe, but the city. |
 |
| Modena |
 |
| Modena |
 |
| Enroute. Very photogenic. |
We eventually climbed a motorway bridge near Saint Fostina, and as we dropped down to a tjunction, spotted a cafe. The Aussie group were there just ahead of us. I got them all to introduce themselves for the video, since I will never remember all their names!
 |
| Sarah, Mary-Ellen, Cath and Cath. |
 |
| Sam, Murray and Jane (Jane from Warwick) |
We rode with the others a short distance, but too big a group and soon split up again.
 |
| left turn at the fox! |
We did a circuit of the next town, Arceto, but found nowhere we fancied for lunch and moved on to get even more lost in the town of Scandiano! 😃 John and I both lost our sense of humor too! But eventually found a cafe for lunch.
 |
| lunch stop in Scandiano |
The Aussie group had a prebooked tour at a Balsamic Vinegar family production place as part of their trip, and since we spotted where it was on our map, decided to join them..... 10 mins late. We offered to pay of course, but no money was taken. (We did buy a small bottle to bring home.)
A very interesting tour. Basically it takes 12 years for a PROPER bottle of Balsamic to be certified. Inspectors visit the production regularly. It all starts with boiling the grapes within 24 hours of picking, so that they dont turn to sugar. That is the main difference from wine production.
 |
| The contents of the barrels moved down a size every 12 months as the liquid thickens by evaporation. |
 |
| Terrible photo! She moved. The owner who did the tour and tasting. |
 |
Outside of the buildings. Murray in the garden.
|
 |
A pleasant afternoon ride to tonight's destination of an Agritourismo.
Plenty of ups and downs. |
 |
Approaching via the back entrance to Agriturismo La Razza, Canali di Reggio
|
 |
| Time for a swim in the pool! It was perfect. |
 |
| Sun going down as we head out to walk 700mtr to the restaurant La Grattugia. |
Tonight our meal was once more prepaid. So no decisions to make! It was lovely, but rather too much food again. I didn't finish my main dish, and a misunderstanding by the waiter meant that he packed my polenta in foil to take away. 😅
 |
| The pickled veg were excellent, as was the puffy bread. |
 |
| Lamb with Polenta. |
 |
| restaurant La Grattugia. Lovely to be eating outdoors again. |
 |
| lol. Takeaway |
 |
| yum. |
FRIDAY 8TH SEPTEMBER REGGIO EMILIA LOOP
There was a choice of two loops today. One short and flat into the town of Reggio. The other starting flat but then climbing steeply to Canossa Castle ruins.... 801mtrs of climbing. A lot of the middle part of the castle ride was also up and down a lot. John was not feeling great with stomach issues, so we decided to go the Castle route as far as we felt able, then we would turn around and do the shorter loop as well.
 |
The vineyard at the Agritourismo. We had spotted a deer here just a few minutes before.
|
 |
| This was our there and back route for the morning. |
Not too far from the Agritourismo, we turned left onto a gravel path. We would cycle on this, mostly flat for 5 miles. (It was actually part of a much longer cycle path)
 |
| And after 5 miles or so, the hills were getting closer. |
 |
| Nearing the end of the gravel track |
We now joined a main road, with a cycle path, and immediately started to climb away from Sedrio. John unfortunately was not feeling too good now, so we made the decision to turn around.
 |
| The extent of our ride, before turned back. |
 |
| Silly sods. 😊 A lot of the fields were in a similar condition, ready for new crop planting. |
We returned to our hotel room for a bit of rest before heading into Reggio for a light lunch. We followed the same gravel path we had used this morning, but in the opposite direction. It was following the river but it was way below us and very empty!.
 |
| After noon ride into Reggio |
 |
| Lovely bit of cycle path in shade on our way to Reggio for lunch. |
 |
| Reggio |
 |
| Seafood Rissotto for me. Melon & Ham for John. Which he enjoyed. |
Another late afternoon relax and swim. Perfect. Then another good meal in the same place as last night. Anything else was too far to walk, but it was great restaurant so it didn't matter.
SATURDAY 9TH SEPTEMBER REGGIO TO PARMA
Australian cyclist Sarah, very kindly offered some Homeopathic tablets to John in the hope that they might help his gastro problems. He carried the little tube to return to her this evening, so that he could repeat the doze enroute. Unfortunately, they did not work, and we called into a Pharmacy enroute. It was entertaining with John trying to act out his symptoms.Thank goodness for google translate.😂😂
 |
| Today's Route moving to Parma. |
The route started by retracing a small part of our afternoon ride yesterday to Reggio, but then turning off to head west. The route included a couple of cheeky 11% climbs, before flattening out.
 |
| Leaveing La Razza, and now heading to our last hotel in Parma |
 |
Drink stop in Montecchio. ( or Barco) The table next to us grew and grew with locals 😂
|
 |
| No room for him and us, so got well out his way, |
 |
| riding near Montechiaruglo... I think! |
 |
walked through a massive market in Montechiarugolo.
We bought a new HOLIDAY PURSE! 😂 |
 |
| Montechiarugolo Castle |
 |
| Also at the Castle. Zebra on the crossing. |
 |
| We saw these white birds every day. Eagrets we think. |
We continued to finish the ride into Parma, reaching there early afternoon, checking in, then out to find some lunch.
 |
| Parma. Our hotel "Button" just around this corner to the right. |
 |
| Hotel Button entrance |
 |
| the lobby was very colourful, but the rooms very bland! |
 |
| Colurful lunch in Parma. John still on the Melon and Parma Ham. |
 |
| colourful Verdi posters. He was from Parma. |
 |
| The buildings once more soooo colourful. |
 |
| Bikes everywhere |
 |
| inside Parma Cathedral, Santa Maria Assunta, in Piazza Domo |
 |
| The font. |
 |
| I noticed this shaft of light each time someone left through the doors. |
 |
| Busy restaurants! Ours was once more prebooked. |
 |
Another great meal. Pre-booked by Cyclebreaks. Osteria dei Mascalzoni (means Rascal😅)
We were supposed to pay for the wine, but the waitress said not to worry. |
 |
Semifredo with Amaretti biscuits. Delicious.
(John is trying this at home as I write this) 😋💗 |
 |
| Looking through the shop window. |
 |
| 9 o'clock. Time for bed.😂 |
SUNDAY 10TH SEPTEMBER PARMA TO TORRECHIARA CASTLE (LOOP)
Our route today, was a very gentle ride for the first 12 miles, then with a ridiculously short, sharp 15% climb to a castle. Would we make it? 😉
 |
| Leaving Parma intially, through a nice park |
We wiggled out of Parma on a different route to the one we arrived from yesterday, good cyclepaths as we have now come to expect. We did join main roads once into the countryside, but mostly quiet. We continued to Vigatto.
 |
| Typical countryside, very flat with round haybales. Blue sky. Hot. |
 |
These were tomatoes growing in the fields.
 |
I've only ever seen tomatoes growing in greenhouses.
 |
Our route did a loop passing this church in Vigatto, where the bells starting to ring as we passed.
Our gradual climb was not difficult, but also no rest from peddling. Finally, we caught sight of the Castle on the hill ahead.
It was very steep, and very hot. I only made it part way up, as did John, then decided I wasn't going to make it anyway, so saw sense and walked to the top.
Looking slightly hot and sweaty!
|
Torriachiara. It was interesting for a few minutes, but only one restaurant, which wasnt really a cafe, so we soon made our way back down to a cafe we had spotted at the bottom of the hill.
 |
| View at the top. |
 |
| A sizable moat. |
 |
| Drinks stop at the bottom with a very welcoming waitress. |
On the way back, I put my Go Pro Camera on John's bike, for him to do a bit of time warp with me in it for a change.
 |
| The way back was all a gradual downhill. Even through the screen shot looks uphill.😂 |
The route returned to Vigatto, where we then turned left and a different route back to Parma.
 |
| The hotel garage, where our bikes were stored. Parking up for the final time. |
A light lunch in the cafe opposite the garage door, then changed and a walk to Pillotta Palace.
 |
The palace was basically now a National Gallery.
We saw too many "Madonna with Child" pictures!!! |
 |
| Pillotta Palace. |
 |
| Pillotta Palace. |
There was also a very interesting old theatre within the palace building. We were plodding by the end of day. Too hot for looking round a city.
We asked if ok to join the Aussie group for dinner? Yes of course, they said. It was nice meal, but very noisy!
 |
Cath made a great speech which included presenting awards for various
"achievements" over the week. My award was for "Best dressed cyclist" 😂
And John was presented one for "Best mechanic". |
Another great cycling adventure. Almost 200 miles over the 6 days.
(Sharing this with Jane, who will pass on to the others. Murray was going straight to Scotland to walk the West Highland Way, and apart from Jane, the others were moving on to Florence to end their months long trip in Europe. Thanks all for your good company during the week. Was nice to see a friendly face and share some laughs with you all.)
